The Hawksmoor

Helen Wright discovers The Hawksmoor, a stylish modern-day speakeasy close to the heart of Covent Garden.

There’s always a restaurant you send your friends to when visiting for the weekend — the place that establishes you as a ‘proper’ Londoner with insider knowledge. It’s usually off the beaten track with only a candlelight flicker in the window to hint at its existence. For me, that place is The Hawksmoor Seven Dials.

Nestled on a cobbled lane with its innocuous doorway and dimly lit entrance, you could easily pass it by, oblivious to its existence. Once inside and down one level, you’re taken aback by the bustling atmosphere and sizzle of sirloin on the grill. Reminiscent of a scene from new Prohibition-era TV drama Boardwalk Empire, your coat’s whisked away and within minutes you find yourself propping up the bar, Marmalade Martini in hand.

The sprawling dining room is classic without being imposing and there’s a nice mixture of groups and couples. The real pull of this place is the mouth-watering menu; if you’re unsure of your steaks, there’s plenty of knowledgeable staff to help you decide. Our waitress recommended a medium-rare Porterhouse for two, ordered based on size and market value. It was expertly chosen and perfectly cooked. The real delight came in the side orders: beef dripping-cooked chips, honey-glazed veg and fresh mushrooms making the perfect accompaniment. With a fruity Argentinean Malbec to wash it down, the result was sensational.

This is the new sister restaurant to the original Hawksmoor in Spitalfields Market, and in my opinion it’s superior. Both can’t be rivalled for food and service, but this joint has that extra fizz of excitement and mystery you can’t order from the menu. I left with the smug feeling of stumbling across a closely guarded secret. Next time you’re in the area I urge you to sample it for yourself — just make sure you check the website for directions.