Kettners

Jo Gardner heads to Kettners on a Saturday night where a buzzing atmosphere, charming service and great food awaits.

Opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, then chef to Napoleon II, Kettner’s has undergone many transformations in its long history, the most recent producing an art-deco theme with ceiling flourishes, white furniture – including a grand piano – white candles in heavy silver holders, fancy mirrors and round Champagne glasses.

Located in the heart of Soho, the fancy spot is a brasserie restaurant, Champagne bar, pudding bar, private dining area and club in one.

The place was already buzzing by 7pm on the Saturday night of our arrival, every floor, nook and cranny filled with families, birthday celebrations, hen parties and even a group of teenage girls all dressed in white.

Taken to a discreet table in the corner by the window, we ordered Strawberry bellinis from the charming, immaculately dressed waiter and settled in to read the menu.

Beautifully presented with flourishes and swirls, the extensive menu had its own section dedicated to tarts – both savoury and sweet – with a tart daily special.

I ordered chicken liver parfait with red onion marmalade to start, while my dining partner ordered six oysters which, despite never getting on with them, looked delicious. For mains, I ordered the special which was salmon with Jersey royals and Asparagus in Champagne butter, while my partner opted for the Seabass with rhubarb and minted peas, a combination – he informed me – that worked very well despite sounding a bit ‘bizarre’. A bottle of crisp, white Sauvignon Blanc proved to be the perfect companion.

For desert we had the option of heading to the pudding bar to choose from a range of gorgeous cheesecakes, meringues and cakes, or order from the menu. Disappointingly we both fancied the strawberry tart with Chantilly creme that came with a slab of dark chocolate and a glass of sweet, syrupy desert wine. Perfect.

Despite being very busy, the service was slick, discreet and friendly throughout, while the food couldn’t be faulted. All in all, a lovely evening.